Friends say I'm an egg whore, which is true. I think I have at least 30 great recipes with them as a centerpiece. But I'm a saffron nut as well.
The pistils of a purple crocus grown in Iran, Kashmir, Spain and even New Zealand, these red threads are much romanticized in parts of the Middle East. The word itself comes from the Persian zarparan, meaning “golden feathers,” a nice summation of the ingredient’s golden finish, dreamy fragrance and hypnotic flavor.
Saffron comes in different grades. Iranian saffron tends to be the best. Just a tiny amount suffices: a quarter-teaspoon of threads dry-cooked on a pan for 30 seconds, crushed to powder and then mixed with two tablespoons of hot water and left to infuse for at least an hour, is quite sufficient for a recipe like this.
As far as I'm aware only two English-language sources tout the following as the basis for a terrific vegetarian dinner: the Australian genius cook Greg Malouf — and me. You almost certainly won't find this dish on any restaurant menu outside of the Middle East, which is another reason to try it at home.
I made it last night. It’s absurdly delicious.
Saffron scrambled eggs
Firstly …
1. Lightly toast a quarter teaspoon of saffron threads in a dry frying pan over a medium heat for about 30 seconds. While the threads must be totally dry, be very careful not to burn them. As they crisp up, they will begin to release a druggy aroma. Tip the saffron into a mortar and leave for a moment or two before grinding to a powder.
2. Mix the ground saffron with two tablespoons of boiling water and set aside to infuse for at least 2 hours before using.
Now the eggs …
INGREDIENTS
6 eggs
30 mls cream
A bit of cold water
1 tablespoon of butter
Handful of chives
Salt and pepper to taste
METHOD
1. Heat pan to hot
2. Lightly whisk the eggs with a fork, adding in water and cream, and the saffron you've so lovingly prepared a few hours earlier.
3. Pour the mixture in to the frying pan, and turn the heat down once the first curds start to form
4. Periodically take the pan off the heat while you continue to turn the mix
5. Once it's nearly ready, add in the salt. Do not under any circumstances add it before this point, which is the really dumb mistake many amateur chefs commit and the main reason why some versions of scrambled eggs end up looking like a greyish blob. (It's a chemical thing. Don't ask me why.)
6. Let it sit for a few minutes. Then snip the fresh chives on top.
7. Serve with bread, hummus, and a spicy tomato salad.